Author Archive

Going the Distance

October 8, 2025

Quaint seem the days when Pan Am executives sat in their Park Avenue skyscraper, scratching their heads over ways to make a 747 reach Tokyo without refueling. Only a few decades later, the advent of ultra long-haul aircraft has made almost any two cities on the map connectable without a stop. Variants of planes like the A350 and 787 can stay aloft for twenty hours. Once upon a time, “long haul” meant New York to London. Today it’s London to Perth.

I say almost. Qantas, for example, still hasn’t closed the gap on the so-called “grail route” between Sydney and London. “Project Sunrise,” as they’ve named it, is the airline’s plan to run flights from Sydney to London, Paris, and New York. The project kicked off in 2017, but certification and technical issues keep pushing things off, and the launch is now delayed until 2027.

Looking at the route maps, however, we see another unconquered frontier that seldom gets a mention: Asia to South America. No airline has ever flown a nonstop route between these two continents. (The closest we have is All Nippon Airways’ flight between Tokyo and Mexico City, which, because of the altitude of MEX, operates nonstop only on the eastbound leg.)

The reasons for this are both economic and technical: There isn’t enough passenger demand to warrant the expenses of operating such a flight, and the distances would challenge the capabilities of even the longest-range jet. The mileage between Tokyo and Lima — the most likely city-pair — is just about equal to the mileage between New York and Singapore, currently the longest flight in the world.

Tokyo-Bogota is a little shorter, but as with Mexico, Bogota’s 8000-foot elevation would pose restrictions. Anything else (Hong Kong to Rio, Tokyo to Santiago, etc.) is probably beyond the range of any existing aircraft.

China Eastern has announced a Shanghai-Buenos Aires flight, but the plane will make a two-hour stopover in Auckland for fuel.

I know what you’re thinking: who the heck wants to be in a plane for that long anyway? That’s a fair question, and the real challenges of long-haul flying are perhaps no longer technological so much as human. That is, how do you keep passengers comfortable, or even sane, on a journey stretching ten-thousand miles? We’re basically at the limits of what people can endure.

In first and business class, things have never been swankier or more luxurious, and there’s virtually no limit to how long passengers in these cabins can tolerate being aloft. But economy class is another story. No matter how many video channels or complimentary cocktails you give people, A nine-abreast row with 32-inch pitch simply isn’t bearable for nineteen hours.

Because of this, some carriers equip their longest flights with enhanced economy cabins. Singapore’s New York flights have no standard economy seats at all, going with a comfier Premium Economy instead. Air New Zealand sells a “Skycouch,” where a row of economy seats convert into a bed.

My personal distance record is a comparatively modest 6,830 miles, covered in sixteen hours and six minutes, on a Delta Air Lines 777-200LR from Detroit to Hong Kong several years ago (Delta no longer flies this route). That, enjoyably, was in business class.

On the other hand, there’s also the 6,925 miles, covered in fourteen hours and forty-six minutes, that I spent in economy aboard South African Airways flight SA202 from JFK to Johannesburg. (Notice how the second flight was a longer distance, but flown in less time.) I know it was exactly fourteen hours and forty-six minutes because there was a digital timer bolted to the bulkhead in front of me, feeding us a minute-by-minute update. Watching the hours tick by seemed a torturous proposition, until a certain passenger was bold enough to tape a piece of paper over the clock.

As to the longest flight I’ve ever piloted, that would be New York to Cairo — a proverbial puddle-jump by today’s metrics.

 

PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR

Dubai boarding bridges
Dubai departure board
ANA arriving at Mexico City
On the apron in Doha

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Des Couleurs Magnifiques

October 6, 2025

I’m just back from Paris today, and apropos of nothing else, here’s a shout-out to Air France. That is, a round of applause for the longevity of the airline’s paint scheme, which I was admiring through the windows at Charles de Gaulle.

It’s downright impressive how long Air France has worn its current livery. As well it should; it’s one of the best.

Back in the late 1970s, Air France was one of the first major carriers to ditch the horizontal “cheat line” striping and move to what aviation nerds call the “Eurowhite” look. And for more than four decades it’s served them well.

There have been revisions. The tail stripes have been softened, and, more recently, the typeface was enlarged and now spells the compound AIRFRANCE. But the template overall has stayed the same. I can think of no other airline whose colors have been so consistent for so long. Singapore, maybe?

The livery incorporates Air France’s distinctive circular logo — one of the industry’s most enduring trademarks and a classic of airline iconography. It’s known as the Hippocampe Ailé, and it dates to 1933, featuring a Pegasus head with the tail of a mythical sea dragon. (The design reminds us of the Homa of Iran Air, around since the ’60s.)

We’re glad they didn’t ditch this emblem, deeming it too anachronistic or some such. On the contrary, they’ve made it bigger, in a prominent spot just aft of the cockpit windows.

 

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Photos by the author.

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So Long to the Selfie Stick

September 24, 2025

I’m pleased to report the demise of two annoying travel trends. Maybe you’ve noticed as well?

The first is pillows. Not all that long ago, it was impossible to walk through an airport without encountering gaggles of teenage girls carrying giant fluffy pillows. I’m uncertain when this trend got started, but, for a while, peaking somewhere around the year 2010, you saw it everywhere.

Granted it was a helpful idea, now that many carriers no longer dispense even tiny, non-fluffy pillows on all but the longest flights. In a window seat, putting a pillow between your body and the sidewall creates a comfy sleeping surface. The trouble was, people like me were out of the club. Grown-up men can’t walk through airports with giant fluffy pillows unless we’re willing to get laughed at. Over the years I’ve seen thousands of girls carrying pillows, but I’m not sure that I’ve ever witnessed a man or even a boy with one.

Well, I no longer feel left out, because, for whatever the reasons, this phenomenon has died away. I haven’t seen a pillow in ages. I can’t say why. It’s not that airplanes have become more comfortable; certainly not in economy class, where, presumably, the majority of pillows were deployed. I guess those padded neck brace things won the battle.

It’s the second change, though, that brings us truer joy.

I’m talking about selfie sticks. These too have mostly gone away. Oh sure, they’re still out there, but in nowhere near the clusters of just a few years ago, when forests of extendable bayonets surrounded pretty much every tourist attraction on the planet, sticking, jamming, poking and prodding anyone who got too close.

Have the masses wised up? Is our faith in humanity restored? Or is this just the inevitable rise and fall of a fad — the kind that happens in deference to some universal mathematics rather than people acting sensibly? Whatever the reasons, sightseeing is now a more pleasant experience that it was in, say, 2015.

I should point out, however, that while selfie sticks are fewer and further between, the selfie plague itself remains with us. (And that was the telling irony of the selfie-stick: it wasn’t designed so that travelers could take better pictures of their surroundings, it was designed so that travelers could take better pictures of themselves.) How and why did people — younger people in particular — became so fixated with self-photography?

I understand the desire to have a picture of yourself in a notable spot. I understand, too, that run-of-the-mill pics of landmarks or scenery can be tedious and redundant — they show nothing a million postcards don’t show already. Putting yourself in the frame, well that makes it personal. I do it. We all do it.

But it’s gone too far. People now photograph themselves obsessively. Here you are in this incredible spot, and effectively you’ve got the camera turned around backwards. Instagram, Facebook, and so on, have become an endless archives of vanity pics. We’ve entered a scary new age of narcissism. Traveling abroad, I’ve been in the company of people who did nothing but photograph themselves, over and over and over.

The only more ubiquitous trend in travel photography, maybe, is that of food pics on social media.

I guess that I don’t “see” food the way a lot of people do, as such a valuable and poignant representation of culture? A photo of a meal somewhere, totally out of context, tells me little. In any case, it’s less about the concept than the sheer volume of these pictures. They’re relentless.

They’re so relentless, in fact, that my only option is to surrender and stop complaining about it. I have no choice, it seems, but to join in, as my Instagram stream reveals.

Further, I have an idea: In the days ahead, I plan to upload dozens of pictures of my favorite restaurant cuisine, domestic and foreign. The twist is, the pictures will show the plates after I’ve finished eating.

I mean, what could be a better testament to the tastiness of a dish than what’s left over — a shot of bones, sauce residue, and some rice grains that you spat onto your plate?

Let’s get started. Here, for example, is some jollof rice and chicken that I enjoyed recently at the Buka restaurant in Accra, Ghana. Doesn’t that look delicious?

JollofRice

At Tandoor restaurant, also in Accra, I savored a delectable coconut chicken kabab with basmati rice. Tell me this doesn’t get your gastric juices flowing.

CocoChicken

And here’s a delicious pizza from Pini’s, here in Somerville.

IMG_5180

More to follow.

 

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The Day of the Cockroach

corridor-shot-1994

 

September 11, 2025

MY MOST VIVID MEMORY of September 11th, 2001, is my memory of a cockroach.

It was one of the biggest roaches I’ve ever seen — copper-colored and bullet-shaped, the length of my little finger — and it came crawling across the platform of the Government Center subway station at 7:00 a.m., as I stood there waiting for the train that would take me to Logan Airport. It scampered, stopped, then zigged and zagged, in that deliberate yet utterly directionless way of insects, its footsteps so heavy I swear that I could hear them, click-click-click on the greasy concrete.

It portended everything, this giant subway cockroach. Or it portended nothing. And as it came closer I drew my foot back — my right foot, I remember with absolute clarity — and nudged it, gently, off the platform and down into the dark and filthy space alongside the tracks, where it disappeared more or less instantly into the shadows and detritus.

This is how we remember things.

Once on the train, I would chat briefly with a United Airlines flight attendant, whose name I never got, and who maybe, possibly — I’ll never know for certain — was headed to work aboard the doomed United flight 175.

I was on my way to Orlando, where I’d be picking up a work assignment later that afternoon. My airplane would lift off only seconds after American’s flight 11, the first of the two jets to hit the twin towers. I had watched the silver Boeing back away from gate 25 at Logan’s terminal B and begin to taxi. United 175 would launch a few minutes later. My plane was in-between.

In an old briefcase here in this room, I still have my boarding pass from that morning. It shows me assigned to seat 11D, on the aisle, but there were empty seats and I slid over the window.

Elevens were wild that day. On the 11th day of the month, flight 11 would collide with the World Trade Center, two buildings that shaped an enormous “11” in the Manhattan sky. I looked down from row 11.

But there was nothing to see, yet. I recall an almost uncannily clear view of Manhattan, taking note, as I always do, of that graceful little bend that the island makes — the way it turns eastbound just below Midtown. There was no smoke, no fire. I was just a few minutes — a matter of seconds, maybe — too soon.

A short time later, about halfway to Florida, we started descending. Because of a “security issue,” our captain told us, we, along with many other airplanes, would be diverting immediately. Pilots are polished pros when it comes to dishing out euphemisms, and this little gem would be the most laughable understatement I’ve ever heard a comrade utter.

Our new destination was Charleston, South Carolina.

A bomb threat had been called in. That was my hunch. My worry wasn’t of war and smoldering devastation. My worry was being late for work. It wasn’t until I joined a crowd of passengers in Charleston, clustered around a TV in a concourse restaurant, that I learned what was going on.

And there I am. I’m watching the video of the second airplane, shot from the ground in a kind of twenty-first century Zapruder film. The picture swings left and picks up the United 767 moving swiftly. This is flight 175. The plane rocks, lifts its nose, and, like a charging, very angry bull making a run at a fear-frozen matador, drives itself into the very center of the south tower. The airplane vanishes. For a fraction of a second there is no falling debris, no smoke, no fire, no movement. Then, from within, you see the white-hot explosion and spewing expulsion of fire and matter.

And then, a bit later, the collapse. And this is the important part. Because to me, had the airplanes crashed, blown up, and reduced the upper halves of those buildings to burned-out hulks, the whole event would nonetheless have clung to the realm of believability. Had the towers not actually fallen, I suspect our September 11 hangover, which rages to this day, might not have been so prolonged. It was the collapse — the groaning implosions and the pyroclastic tornadoes whipping through the canyons of lower Manhattan — that catapulted the event from ordinary disaster to historical infamy.

As I stand awestruck in this shithole airport restaurant in South Carolina, the television shows the towers of the World Trade Center. They are not just afire, not just shedding debris and pouring out oil-black smoke. They are falling down. The sight of those ugly, magnificent towers, collapsing onto themselves, is the most sublimely terrifying thing I have ever seen.

Then I would go to a motel and spend the night. The next morning I’d rent a car and drive all the way home to Boston.

This is how we remember things.

And pilots, like fire fighters, police officers, and everyone else whose professions had been implicated, had no choice but to take things, well, personally. Four on-duty airline crews were victims, including eight pilots. John Ogonowski comes to mind, the good-guy captain of American 11. Of the thousands of people victimized that day, Captain Ogonowski was figuratively, if not literally, the first of them. He lived in my home state; his funeral made the front pages, where he was eulogized for his philanthropic work with local Cambodian immigrants.

Maybe it’s melodramatic to say I felt a bond or kinship with these eight men, but it’s something like that. What they went through, these eight colleagues on the very front edge of the attacks, the very men whose airplanes would be stolen and weaponized, is something I can’t fathom yet, at the same time, I can imagine and visualize all too chillingly.

And yes, in the ten-second bursts it took the towers to fall, I knew something about the business of flying planes would be different forever. I just wasn’t sure what it would be.

Fast-forward. It’s hyperbole to speak of the world having been “changed forever” that day. I’m conservative and skeptical when it comes to these things. History is bigger than us. Try to take the long view, even if, all these years on, the dominos haven’t stopped falling. Heck, tens of millions of people died in World War Two — tens of thousands at a time, as the incendiaries rained down over Europe and Japan. A hundred thousand bodies one night in Tokyo alone.

Sure, things are different now. Albeit for reasons we don’t always own up to. I have to say, I’m discouraged — or should that be encouraged? — because more than any “clash of civilizations,” the real and lasting legacy of Mohamed Atta and his henchmen has been something more mundane: tedium.

Think about it. The long lines, the searches and pat-downs, the litany of rules and protocols we’re forced to follow — all this meaningless pomp in the name of security. Of modern life’s many rituals, few are marinated in boredom as much as air travel. “Flying” is what we call it. How misleading. We don’t fly so much as we sit and stand around for interminable amounts of time.

And most distressing of all, we seem to be okay with this. There’s the real legacy of September 11th. The terrorists have won, goes the refrain, and perhaps that’s true. It isn’t quite what they hoped to win, but they’ve won it nevertheless.

The irony that nobody talks about is that the hijackers’ ability to pull off the 2001 attacks so spectacularly had almost nothing to do with airport security in the first damn place. And none of the measures we see on the concourse today would have kept them from succeeding. I’ve made this point many times, but never have I seen or heard it acknowledged elsewhere.

As conventional wisdom has it, the terrorists exploited a weakness in airport security by smuggling boxcutters onto the airplanes. But conventional wisdom is wrong. What the men actually exploited was a weakness in our mindset — a set of presumptions based on the decades-long track record of hijackings and how they were expected to unfold: diversions to Beirut or Havana, with hostage negotiations and standoffs.

The presence of boxcutters was merely incidental — particularly when coupled with the bluff of having a bomb. The men could have used knives fashioned from plastic, broken bottles wrapped with tape, or any of a thousand other improvised tools. The only weapon that mattered was the intangible one: the element of surprise. So long as they didn’t chicken out, they were all but guaranteed to succeed.

For a number of reasons, just the opposite is true today. The hijack paradigm was changed forever even before the first of the Twin Towers had dropped to the ground, when the passengers of United 93 realized what was happening and fought back. That element of surprise was no longer a useful device. Hijackers today would face not only an armored cockpit, but also a planeload of people convinced they’re about to die. It’s hard to imagine a terrorist, be it with a boxcutter or a bomb, making it two steps up the aisle without being pummeled. It’s equally hard to imagine that organized groups would be willing to expend valuable resources on a scheme with such a high likelihood of failure.

In spite of this reality, we are apparently content spending billions of taxpayer dollars and untold hours of labor in a delusional attempt to thwart an attack that has already happened and cannot happen again. Guards paw through our luggage in a hunt for what are effectively harmless items: hobby knives, scissors, screwdrivers. Meanwhile, even a child knows that a lethal implement can be crafted out of virtually anything, from a ballpoint pen to a shattered first class dinner plate.

And so on.

A September 11th post isn’t anything I’ve looked forward to, and I’m wary of the maudlin sentimentalizing and over-the-top coverage this anniversary brings each year. But something needs to be said, and so here it is. After all, nothing in my lifetime had a more profound effect on air travel than the events of that Tuesday morning twenty-three years ago.

At least until COVID-19 came along.

As the pandemic played out, it was interesting to notice the eerie parallels with September 11th and the ensuing “war on terror.”

Both crises were born of legitimately dangerous circumstances, but quickly became twisted by politics and hysteria. Curiously, this seems to have happened in opposite ways: After the 2001 attacks, it was mostly people on the right who bought into the hype and fear; who saw terrorists around every corner and were willing to sign off on things like the Patriot Act, TSA, the Iraq War, and so forth. Left-leaning people resisted. With COVID, it was left-leaning people who were more fearful and pessimistic, while those on the right advocate for a softer, more laissez-faire approach.

Why the difference? I suspect it’s because people who lean right are more naturally drawn to responses involving power and conflict; going after enemies, seeking revenge, etc. — all the things that came into play after September 11th. The pandemic, on the other hand, centered on concepts like compassion and “saving people.”

Both crises have mostly receded, thankfully. But one of the crucial takeaways, in both instances, was witnessing how, when people are afraid, they’ll quickly adapt to almost anything, including ways of life that are unproductive or harmful.

Just as the virus will stay with us, chronic and endemic, so will terrorism. There may have been, and may still be, a “war on terror,” but there will never be an end of terrorism.

How we live within this reality defines us for the long term. We can do so sensibly, or by waging a ruinously expensive, self-destructive battle with no conceivable end.

 

About the photos:

The picture at the top was taken by the author from the cockpit of a 19-seater in 1994.

The second picture is a watercolor rendition of the same, painted by Julianna Harhay, the daughter of Michael Harhay, a pilot for United Airlines. That is Michael’s arm in the first photo.

 

An earlier version of this essay appears in chapter six of COCKPIT CONFIDENTIAL.

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A Toast to Iran Air

September 8, 2025

It’s remarkable how often geopolitics and aviation intersect. I snapped the above photo a dozen or so years ago at the airport in Bangkok, Thailand. That’s an El Al 767 buddy-buddy with an Iran Air 747SP. At the time it drew a chuckle. Today it’s more of a gasp.

Was this by accident, do you think, or were the authorities at BKK pushing for a sort of tarmac detente?

It’s maybe hard to imagine, but in the days before the Iranian revolution, El Al flew scheduled services between Tel Aviv and Tehran. Iran Air, for its part, was a world-class airline with routes from New York to Tehran via London and Paris. Somewhere in a box at my father’s house is a picture of an Iran Air 747 that I took at Kennedy Airport in 1979, using an old Kodak Instamatic.

In some other reality, Iran Air’s hub at Tehran became a global aviation crossroads, akin to what happened in Dubai and Doha. But the regime had other plans, and today the carrier flies a skeleton fleet of around 20 jets.

Iranian aviation has been hemmed in under sanctions, and the difficulty of obtaining new aircraft has forced carriers to keep older models in service much longer than is customary. As of this year, four Airbus A300s remain on Iran Air’s roster — among only a handful in the world still carrying passengers. Iran Air was the final commercial operator the 747SP, the jet you see above. This was the short-bodied, extra long-range 747 variant developed in the 1970s. A different Iranian carrier, Saha Airlines, was the last to fly the 707.

This second photo I took at Amsterdam-Schiphol…

Man, Iran Air pilots have it tough. It must be claustrophobic in there.

Very funny. That’s not for the crew, of course. It’s for their luggage. Outside the United States, air crews embarking on multi-day assignments travel with large, hard-side suitcases, which they check in prior to flight. The bags are then loaded into designated containers like this one. Hauling a week’s worth of clothes around in a roll-aboard bag is mostly an American thing.

The picture gives you a good view of Iran Air’s peculiar logo. The insignia is inspired by the character of Homa, a kind of bird-horse-cow griffin, seen carved on the columns at the ancient Persian site of Persepolis. It was designed 1961 by a 22 year-old art student named Edward Zohrabian, and has been used ever since.

It’s an old-fashioned design for sure. It’s also vaguely fetal and creepy-looking. But here’s hoping they keep it around, if only for posterity. It’s just a matter of time, I worry, before this enduring mark is dustbinned for some stupid swooshy thing.

I once met an Iran Air crew in the terminal at Schiphol. They were gracious and polite, and gave me a pair of souvenir wings, which I still have…

 

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Here We Go Again

The author’s roll-aboard stands stoically in a hotel room,
awaiting its next journey.

 

February 19, 2020

Son of a bitch. Here we go again with “rollerboard,” that odious, etymologically crippled term for wheeled luggage.

Originally I blamed the novelist Gary Shteyngart for mainstreaming this dismal word, scattering it throughout the opening pages of his latest book, Lake Success. Now, in a truly distressing blow, I discover that Jonathan Franzen — Jonathan Franzen! — is perhaps equally responsible. The word appears multiple times in “Missing,” one of the essays in Franzen’s 2018 collection, The End of the End of the Earth.

The End is a heartbreaking enough book to start with. The author and I share a love of birds (the feathered kind if not the metal ones) and I was having a tough time getting through his sober chronicle of all the depraved things humans are doing to ensure their destruction. To then stumble across “rollerboard” made it all a bit much. I had the same reaction as I did reading Lake Success, which was to fling the book in a corner and go pout.

Both books were published in the fall of 2018, which clearly points to a conspiracy of some kind. And both of my favorite authors having helped to normalize this lazy bastardization is something I take personally. I feel betrayed!

Of course, it seems pretty likely that “rollerboard” was accepted usage before Franzen or Shteyngart ran with it. It’s tough to imagine two authors of such eminence getting a non-word past their editors and fact-checkers. When and how the term entered the lexicon I can’t say for sure. If I weren’t so exasperated and afraid of what I might find, I’d look it up.

The problem is that “rollerboard” (sometimes presented as “roller board”) is a misconstruction. It’s a mis-hearing of the term “roll-aboard.” This is wheeled luggage we’re talking about. You roll it aboard. “Roll-aboard” (or “rollaboard”) makes sense not only logically and grammatically, but has a pretty sound to it as well. “Rollerboard” is something unrelated, that in no way evokes or describes luggage. A board with wheels on it? I picture a plank, or a surfboard, with wheels like roller skates.

Yes I know, this is the evolution of language. Our conversations, you’ll point out, are jammed with words that have come into general use through laziness or distortion. “Rollerboard,” meanwhile, has just enough of the right sound and meaning to be plausible, sort of.

I sense defeat. And there are, I suppose, worse words to pick on.

 

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Airplane Slippers That Don’t Suck

September 5, 2025

THERE’S A LOT going on in the airline world: air traffic control shortages, I.T. meltdowns, maybe a merger or two on the way? Allow me to ignore these stories and talk about something more exciting: airplane slippers.

You know how it goes. You’re on a long-haul trip in first or business, and they give you a pair of those slippers. They’re flimsy and flat on the bottom; you can feel the cardboard insert that forms the sole. After ten minutes one of them falls off. A few minutes later the other one goes. Later you find them on the floor, lodged somewhere in the footwell. Sometimes you’re on the way to the lav and the damn things slip off in mid-stride.

We don’t expect carriers to spend much on single-use amenities, but the sad design of the typical inflight slipper makes a cheap and wasteful product only more cheap and wasteful.

One airline has, at last, addressed this. Imagine my delight when I slipped on these new first class Emirates slippers and discovered they include an elastic band that attaches around the heel. A simple, elegant, and (I would guess) inexpensive fix…

How much fun.

Now you can jog your way to the bathroom without a slip; kick your legs around as you toss and turn in your suite; wiggle your toes and shake your ankles. These things stay on.

I swear, this is the smartest thing to happen to premium class air travel in years.

Best of all, you can bring them home and reuse them. They’re still cheap slippers, but they’re good enough to wear into the basement when I have to switch the clothes from the washer to the dryer, or out to the porch for my Amazon packages.

Sometimes it’s the little things.

And here are a couple of people who could use a pair…

 

Photos by the author.

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Looking Down

August 25th, 2025

PILOTS SPEND a lot of time looking down. One of the odder sights I’ve beheld is that of Sable Island, a low-lying castaway crescent in the North Atlantic, about 170 miles east of Nova Scotia.

I remember the first time I saw it, maybe two decades ago, flying back from Europe one afternoon. I looked down, and there was this stretched-out sickle of land where common sense told me there should be nothing but blue. “What’s this thing underneath us?” I asked the ATC facility in Gander.

“Sable Island,” came the answer. I jotted down the name and looked it up.

It’s Ile de Sable, in French, which means Island of Sand. That more or less sums it up. It’s about 27 miles long, but only a miles or so across at its widest point. From 35,000 feet it looks like a giant toenail clipping lost at sea.

It’s home to a small airstrip, a research station, and about 500 Sable Island horses, a feral breed that has roamed there since the 1700s. A Canadian National Park Reserve, Sable is off limits to visitors without a permit. Which is probably just as well, considering its remoteness and the bleakness of the North Atlantic climate.

Sea level rise and erosion have the island marked for oblivion by the end of this century, so see it while you can. Keep your window shade cracked next time you’re flying westbound from Europe, and maybe sneak a peek.

 

Photo by the author.

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Do You Remember?

July 10, 2025

THERE’S NOSTALGIA, and then there’s time travel.

The latter is impossible, but every once in a while, in the right circumstances, you can nudge up against it.

For me it happened a few nights ago, at a small concert venue in Malden, Massachusetts. Up on stage was an outfit called Greg Norton & Büddies. The buddies, or Büddies, were guitarist Jon Snodgrass and drummer David Jarnstrom. And Greg Norton was Greg Norton, bassist from the legendery Minnesota threesome Hüsker Dü.

I hadn’t seen Greg since October of 1987, when Hüsker Dü performed at a club called Toad’s in New Haven, Connecticut. This was shortly before the band’s demise; the thirteenth, and last, time I would watch them play.

Even before the death of drummer/vocalist Grant Hart in 2017, the possibility of a reunion was never taken seriously. It wasn’t gonna happen, and we superfans knew it. We had our memories, our albums, our bootlegs. That would be it. The closest we could come was going to see Hart or Bob Mould on their solo tours, enjoying the newer stuff but always waiting impatiently for whatever Hüsker classics they might sprinkle in.

Then one day, all these years later, Greg Norton says fuck it. He teams up a pair of outstanding musicians and hits the road playing nothing but Hüsker songs. “Celebrating 40-plus years of Hüsker Dü!” boasts the promos. No ambiguity here; you don’t have to wait for an encore to hear “Books About UFOs” or “Celebrated Summer.”

I’d skipped out on the last several Bob Mould shows, but this was something different. Barring the outlandish possibility of Mould teaming up with Norton, this would be as close to seeing Hüsker Dü again as will ever be possible. I couldn’t not go.

Call it a cover band if you have to. But then, is it a cover band, exactly, when one of the guys is, well, one of the guys? How to even describe this? Imagine Beatlemania, except way cooler and starring an actual Beatle.

Which is probably an insulting way to put it, because there was nothing superficial or gimmicky about the hour-long set Norton and his mates blasted through. I knew ahead of time that a number of songs would be sung by audience members ambitious enough, and sentimentally motivated enough, to give it a try, and so I expected it to be fun. And it was. What I didn’t expect was how passionate it would be.

That’s probably due, in part, to the energy that longtime devotees like me brought with us into the room. This was, for us, more than a novelty act. (And yeah, it was a distinctly older, Gen X crowd.) But it’s also true that the band kicked ass.

One third of Hüsker Dü can never be Hüsker Dü, but damn if the songs weren’t nailed. Greg might hate me for saying this, but their set was tighter than some of the Hüsker sets I stood through back in the 80s. I missed the sight of Mould’s iconic Ibanez flying-V, but Jon Snodgrass knew the songs backwards and forwards. As did Jarnstrom on drums (who unlike Grant Hart wears shoes while he plays).

The set list was just about perfect, though I wish they’d done “Terms of Psychic Warfare.” I loved the choice of “It’s Not Funny Anymore” as the kickoff, and kudos too for bringing out Hart’s, “Back From Somewhere.” There aren’t a lot of memorable cuts on the Warehouse album, but that’s one of them them — one of Grant’s mini-masterpiece sleepers.

At one point Snodgrass took the mic and and talked for a moment about the song “Divide and Conquer,” comparing it to a Bob Dylan song. He wasn’t kidding around, and this leaped out at me. What it made clear is that these guys weren’t just doing an imitation of Hüsker Dü. They were doing their best to replicate, and to wholeheartedly respect, the band’s energy and spirit. They know and understand why people like me take their music so seriously. Led along, of course, by Greg, who was there for the real thing.

And who, by the way, at 67, can still get some air with those signature jumps.

Close your eyes for a second, and let that time machine kick in. This was as close to 1985 as you’ll ever get again. A tribute in the best possible way.

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Photo courtesy of Joshua Pickering.

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At Long Last, TSA Ditches the Shoe Rule

July 9, 2025

THAT SOUND you heard was the sudden rejoicing of tens of millions of U.S. air travelers. They’re whooping it up because TSA just rescinded its longstanding requirement for passengers to remove their shoes prior to screening. The change was announced on July 7th. It came without warning and went into effect immediately.

The shoe rule was put in place in 2006, five years after British terrorist Richard Reid attempted to blow up an American Airlines flight with explosives hidden in his sneakers.

“Thanks to our cutting-edge technological advancements and multi-layered security approach,” said the agency in a press release, “We are confident we can implement this change while maintaining the highest security standards.”

Whatever that means, exactly, is unclear. The important part is, lines will move more quickly.

One of my biggest gripes with airport security has been how entrenched the rules and protocols have become. Aside from the PreCheck program, not much has changed since the early 2000s — other than the fact we’ve gotten used to it all. There’s been little outside pressure to overhaul or re-think our berserk approach to keeping the skies safe, and travelers have merely grown accustomed to the tedium. The time and resources we’ve wasted over the last two decades is staggering.

So consider me surprised. And encouraged.

Hopefully the rest of the world will follow suit. Most of Europe and Asia came to their senses a while back, but a number of countries still make flyers doff their Birckenstocks.

We hope, too, that the liquids and gels policy is next.

 

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Photos courtesy of Getty Images and Unsplash.

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